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Costing02 April 202611 min read

Fabric Costing From Zero: A Practical Framework For New Weavers

A full step-by-step system to estimate per-meter cost from yarn inputs, including shortage, overhead, and decision checks before quoting.

1) Lock Structure Before Price Discussion

Quotations fail when construction inputs are unstable. First freeze total ends (taar), width, PPI, and yarn systems for warp and weft.

Even a small hidden change in PPI or width can move weft consumption enough to erase margin in bulk orders.

  • Base quality name and target application
  • Width, PPI, and total ends
  • Warp yarn and each weft yarn definition

2) Normalize Units Into Tex

Use one unit base before any cost calculation. Tex is a practical bridge unit because it directly expresses grams per 1000 meters.

From standard yarn definitions: denier is grams per 9000 meters, so tex = denier / 9. For cotton count Ne, tex = 590.5 / Ne.

3) Compute Warp And Weft Weight Separately

Warp weight per meter comes from total ends and warp tex. Weft weight per meter comes from picks per meter, width in meters, and weft tex.

Do not combine streams too early. Separate visibility helps you adjust design quickly when a specific yarn price spikes.

  • Warp weight_no_shortage = ends × warp_tex / 1000
  • Weft length_per_meter = ppi × 39.37 × width_m
  • Weft weight_no_shortage = weft_length_per_meter × weft_tex / 1000

4) Apply Shortage Per Stream

Shortage is not one blanket value; it is a risk buffer by stream. Apply warp shortage to warp and separate shortage values for each weft.

This keeps calculations realistic when one yarn has more variation than others.

5) Add Commercial Layer

After total yarn cost per meter, add khata kharch and other fixed process expenses to reach ex-GST break-even.

Only then evaluate GST, sell price, profit, and budget fit. This sequence avoids confusing tax with production economics.